Fireplace Maintenance and Safety Tips

Attached is an article from "Realty Reality," a web site for people living in the NJ & PA area but has applications here in Mississippi as well. I hope you find the attached of value as we go into the fall and winter season.

With cooler seasons approaching, more of us will want to enjoy our fireplaces. But before you warm to the glow, make sure that you know how to make your fireplace safe. Here are guidelines and resources for fireplace safety, maintance, inspection and cleaning...

Wood Burning Fireplaces
Creosote is a natural by-product of burning wood and sticks to the walls of chimneys/flues. It is tar-like substance made up of almost pure carbon and is combustible, so it is important to not to allow a build-up in your chimney/flue. To inspect and clean it yourself, here are some basic guidelines:
Open the damper of the fireplace and, using a strong spotlight, look up way inside to determine the condition of the interior as well as the level of creosote in the chimney. This is fairly easy if you know what to look for. As far as condition is concerned, look for spaces and cracks in the surface. For creosote, look for a grayish/black buildup. If this is grayer in color and not shiny, it can be easily removed with the proper sized chimney brush. On the other hand, if it is black and shiny, it will be more difficult to remove and may require a special spray-on powder that helps turn the tough black glaze to a more brittle state. It can then be removed with a chimney brush.

Use a toothbrush and Worcestershire sauce to keep brass shiny. You can scrub the brass knobs, or even the door or metal areas around the fireplace.

The flue/chimney should be cleaned with either a metal or plastic brush. Orange clay flue tiles need to be cleaned with a wire brush, while round metal flues should be cleaned with a plastic brush to avoid scraping the metal surface. Before cleaning any chimney, make sure the opening into the house is sealed up to avoid expelling dust, ash, and soot into the living area. If you use a vacuum to suck up the soot, make sure it comes equipped with a HEPA filter to trap the dust. Please test how this works with a small amount before completing the job.(Source: Fireplace Essentials)Gas Fireplace Inspection Check Points:- safety test for carbon monoxide (CO)
- check for leaks in the log set and burner pan
- check gas line pressure
- clean burners and controls
- clean and adjust pilot assembly/spark ignition
- check vent and diverter
- check power vent and fan kit if applicable
- clean glass window with approved cleaner
- clean-up/vacuum around base of unit

Basic Periodic Maintenance for Fireplaces
Annually: Have your wood-burning fireplace chimney inspected and cleaned by a professional to ensure that it’s obstruction free and clear of creosote, (Have your gas fireplace inspected by a trained professional. Be sure the fan, pilots, and burners are checked, and that the ignition and combustion are working properly.)
Monthly: Clean gas logs with a soft-bristle brush. Make sure the logs are cool before you start.
Weekly: During heavy periods of use, clean the wood-burning firebox. Never empty the box completely if you plan to use it again in a few days (an inch of ash in the bottom works as an insulator, helping wood heat faster and retain heat longer). Note: Before removing the ash from the firebox, open the damper, which will draw any flying ash up and not out into the room.
Other: Cap the chimney to deter animals from entering, keep away debris from blocking opening, help prevent water damage and prevent large burning embers from escaping and stating fires in surrounding area. (Source: HomeMag)

Usage Tips:
- Avoid burning a fire longer than five hours and be sure the door is open for proper venting.
- Always keey the screen closed to keep hot embers from jumping onto the carpet.
- Consider placing a non-flammable rug directly in front of the fireplace just in case any sparks do escape. (The rug will prevent sparks from igniting a carpet or wooden floor in case some of these sparks escape from the fire. Also make sure that the rug is kept clear of flamable items.)
- Never leave your fire unattended, especially when small children are present.(Source: FirePlaces)

Additional Online Resources:

The Hearth, Patio and Barbecue Association (HPBA) has tips on fireplace safety. Click here to view their Fireplace Safety Tips. Fact Sheet on Fireplace Safety (PDF)HGTV - Fireplace Maintenance - chimneysweep explains ways to care for and maintain a fireplace.About.com - Woodburning Fireplace Maintenance
About.com - Gas Burning Fireplaces / Before You Buy A Gas-Log Fireplace (What You Should Know)


Chimney Safety Institute of America (CSIA) has safety and maintenance tips as well as directory of chimney sweeps. Here is an example tip:
Ever wonder what wood is the best to burn as firewood? Oak is an American favorite, as well as other hard-woods. You can burn other softer wood also, as long as it is split and dried long enough. It's much more important to burn dry wood than to worry about what kind of wood it is.

Video: Fireplace Maintenance - episode segment from Michael Holigan's "Your New House" TV show, also transcript and additional online information.

Gas Log Maintenance, Service & Repair FAQ

Gas log maintenance is relatively simple, which is one of the best things about owning a set. There's none of the hauling and sweeping associated with real wood, and no sparks to worry about. Here are a few rules of thumb for keeping your gas log set well-maintained:

Have a Professional Inspect Your Gas Logs Once a Year

A certified professional installer should come out once a year to check your gas lines, valves, connections, and safety pilot assembly, especially if you use your gas logs often. The Hearth, Patio, and Barbecue Association (HPBA) also recommends that you have your chimney inspected and cleaned once a year to make sure that soot buildup is not preventing your gas log set from being properly vented.

Cleaning Your Gas Logs

Gas logs don't need much cleaning, but if you want to make them look like new, first make sure they are turned off and are not hot to the touch. Then brush your gas logs with a soft-bristled brush or a duster to remove any dust or dirt. Do not remove your gas logs from the fireplace to clean them - leave them in their installed position. Never use water or any other solvents to clean gas logs.

Gas Log Service & Repair

Most service and repairs, such as to a broken valve, leaky gas line, or a burner that is producing soot or carbon monoxide should be done by a certified professional. However, if you simply need new embers or other decorative elements, those you can order and place yourself.

Easy Solutions for Saving Energy and Money This Fall

The attached comments are reprints from Center Point Energy's monthly newsletter that is well worth repeating.  Though not new ideas, they are tried and proven ways of saving money during the heating season.

• Lower thermostat setting.  Lower the thermostat setting to 68 degrees during the day, and to 58 degrees at night or when away.  For every one degree reduction in the thermostat setting, one can save 3-5 percent on heating bills.
• Install a programmable thermostat.  A programmable thermostat can automatically lower the heating temperature at night or while one is away from home.
• Seal leaks and windows.  Seal leaks around doors and windows with weatherstripping or caulk.  stretch plastic tightly over inside or outside of windows to reduce cold air infiltration.
• Heating system tune-up.  Furnaces should be checked annually by a qualified technician to ensure safe and efficient operation.  
• Change furnace filter.  Change furnace filter according to manufacturer specifications.
• Lower water heater temperature.  Reduce water heating costs by simply lowering the thermostat setting on the water heater.  Turn the water heater temperature to the lowest setting comfortable.  for most people, 120 degrees Fahrenheit is sufficient and safe.

Home Electrical Generators

If you live in or near Oxford, MS or for that matter, anywhere in the US these days, you probably have experienced power outages due to many factors.  Inclement weather, earth quakes, extremely hot summer temperatures, electrical grid failures, generation outages and transformer failures are just a few items that can cause you to loose power for extended periods of time.  It seems like this year for all of us, these events have occurred all too often and left many of us in the dark.  It is even worse if you are away from home and your home, including your refrigerator/freezer leave you with spoiled food, extremely high temperatures and in some cases, major humidity issues that you only find when you return home.  What a vacation?????


Thank goodness there are some solutions for these problems today that are not as costly as they once were.  I am specifically talking about a partial or whole house permanently installed generator powered by natural gas.  What they do is sit outside your home, very much in size like that of a central air conditioning condenser unit that only come on following a greater than 2 minute power outage.  They are very easy to maintain, require a automatic weekly 12 minute operation to maintain the battery charge and can provide partial or full house generating capacity, in all or only partial areas of electrical need.

I installed a partial home generator in my home three years ago when I built it and have been very pleased with the results.  While I have had it come on automatically on multiple occasions, its greatest use was this summer when a tornado hit our neighborhood and did much damage leaving the power out for an extended period of time.  The unit came on and provided power for us to follow the weather via TV and keep up with what was happening in the area for the next 24 hours before power was restored.  During this time, two additional tornadoes occurred, one of which devastated many homes in an area near ours.

It is not very difficult for an electrician to install one of these as depicted below and if you specify natural gas or propane as the fuel of choice, the run time is essentially unlimited.  I highly recommend consideration of a whole or partial home generator, based on my experience, even if you only have to use it once a year.  You will be amazed at the Peace of Mind it brings to you as a home owner.  If you are interested and want to get a view of how some raters pick units, take a look at this URL (http://www.generators.smps.us/ratings.html) on the internet.

Don't Forget Refrigerators and Freezers in Your Energy Savings Plans

Attached is a reprint from the California Energy Commission's Consumer Energy Center which I found of significant interest as I have begun to see my energy bills rise this summer.  I hope you find it beneficial.  Even though we are in northern Mississippi, our heat loads and subsequent costs have risen here this summer and the ideas mentioned here are worth your consideration.

REFRIGERATORS AND FREEZERS

Refrigerators and freezers consume about a sixth of all electricity in a typical American home - using more electricity than any other single household appliance.

Fortunately, refrigerators have gotten much more efficient over the past 20 years. While there still is room for improvement, today's refrigerators use 60 percent less electricity on average than 20-year-old models.

If you have an old style, inefficient refrigerator, it may be costing you as much as $280 a year in electricity in areas with high electrical rates. That means that a new, more efficient model will pay for itself just from the energy savings alone.

Always keep in mind that appliances have two price tags. One tag is the purchase price on the equipment when you pick it out at the store. The other price is the operating cost paid out month after month, year after year, in the form of your electricity bill.

Take a look at the new refrigerator you're thinking about buying. Consider how much it will cost each month to run it. Twenty years from now it should still be keeping food cold. But at the end of those 20 years, you may find that you spent much more money operating the refrigerator than you did buying it in the first place!

That's why it's important to consider the operating costs as well as the purchase price when you make your buying decisions. And remember that purchasing an energy efficient unit really pays off in your utility bills.

Today's Standards - Refrigerator and Freezer Efficiency

Refrigerators have to meet federal or California standards for minimum operating efficiency. It's possible, however, to purchase a refrigerator that is better than the minimum. Refrigerators that exceed minimum standards will run more efficiently and provide you with long-term savings on your monthly utility bill. In fact, the additional cost you may pay for an energy efficient one is often paid off many times over by the energy savings.

Before you go shopping, explore the ENERGY STAR® product database. It lists high efficiency refrigerators, refrigerator-freezers, and freezers that exceed appliance efficiency standards - making it easier for you to decide which models to look for when you go shopping.

For even more efficiency information, check out the EnergyGuide label that appears on the outside of refrigerators and many other appliances.

Refrigerators 

Buying Smart

Refrigerators come with an EnergyGuide label that tells you in kilowatt-hours (kWh) how much electricity a particular model uses in a year. The smaller the number, the less energy the refrigerator uses and the less it will cost you to operate.

Before you go shopping, explore the Energy Star� product database. It lists high efficiency refrigerators, refrigerator-freezers, and freezers that exceed appliance efficiency standards - making it easier for you to decide which models to look for when you go shopping.

Also check with your local utility company to see if they are offering rebates on energy efficient models.

• Refrigerators with the freezer on either the bottom or top are the most efficient. Bottom freezer models use approximately 16 percent less energy than side-by-side models and top freezer models use about 13 percent less than side-by-side.
  
• Through-the-door icemakers and water dispensers are convenient and reduce the need to open the door, which helps maintain a more constant temperature; however, these convenient items will increase your refrigerator's energy use by 14 to 20 percent.
  
• Mini-doors give you easy access to items most often used. The main door is opened less often, which saves energy.
  
• Too large a refrigerator may waste space and energy. One that's too small can mean extra trips to the grocery store. Your best bet is to decide which size fits your needs, then compare the EnergyGuide label on each so you can purchase the most energy efficient make and model.
  
• A manual defrost refrigerator uses half the energy of an automatic defrost model but must be defrosted regularly to stay energy efficient.
  
• Refrigerators with anti-sweat heaters consume five percent to 10 percent more energy. Look for models with an "energy saver" switch that lets you turn down - or off - the heating coils (which prevent condensation).

Freezers

• Chest freezers are usually more efficient than upright freezers. Chest freezers are better insulated and cold air doesn't spill out when the door is opened.
  
• Automatic defrost freezers can consume 40 percent more electricity than similar manual defrost models.

It's Your Money

Don't put the refrigerator near a heat source - an oven, the dishwasher or direct sunlight from a window.

• Make sure air can circulate around the condenser coils. Leave a space between the wall or cabinets.
  
• Keep your refrigerator's coils clean. Brushing or vacuuming the coils can improve efficiency by as much as 30 percent.
  
• Check door seals to make sure they are airtight. To test them, close the door on a dollar bill and try to pull it out. If the dollar slides out easily, kiss that dollar away because you're wasting energy and money by letting cold air leak out!
  
• Check the temperature - a fridge that is 10 degrees colder than necessary can use 25 percent more energy. Refrigerators should be kept between 35 and 38 degrees - freezers at 0 degrees Fahrenheit.
  
• A full refrigerator retains cold better than an empty one. If your refrigerator is nearly empty, store water-filled containers inside. The mass of cold items will enable the refrigerator to recover more quickly after the door has been opened. On the other hand, don't overfill it, since that will interfere with the circulation of cold air inside. The simplest solution is to buy the right size for your family in the first place.
  
• Open the door as little as possible. Get in and out quickly. Label leftovers so you can quickly see what they are.
  
• Regularly defrost manual-defrost models. Frost buildup increases the amount of energy needed to keep the motor running.
  
• Allow hot foods to cool before refrigerating or freezing.
  
• Get rid of that older, energy-hogging second refrigerator in your garage! One large refrigerator is cheaper to run than two smaller ones.

If you do get rid of your older refrigerator or freezer, please dispose of it properly. Make sure the door is removed so children cannot be trapped inside older models that have locking doors. Also, make sure that the refrigerant, such as chlorofluorocarbons or CFCs, is properly recycled. CFCs are suspected of depleting the Earth's protective ozone layer when released into the atmosphere.

Refrigerators and Freezers Tips

Leave enough space between your refrigerator and the walls or cabinets so air can circulate around the condenser coils. Trapped heat increases energy consumption.

For food safety keep your refrigerator between 36� and 40� F and your freezer between 0° and 5° Fahrenheit. A refrigerator that is colder than safety dictates uses up to 25 percent more energy, and will freeze your milk and lettuce.

As your food budget permits, keep your freezer and refrigerator full-but not so full that air can't circulate. The mass of cold items inside will help your refrigerator recover each time the door is opened. Here's a hint: If your refrigerator is nearly empty, store water-filled containers inside.

Check door seals regularly to make sure they're airtight. To test them, close the door on a dollar bill and try to pull it out. (Larger bills are harder to come by, but work just as well!) If the dollar slides out easily, you're wasting energy and money.

Unless it has untold sentimental value, get rid of that older, energy-hogging second refrigerator in your garage! It's costing you about $120 a year to operate. One large refrigerator is cheaper to run than two smaller ones. (Warning: If you get rid of an older refrigerator or freezer, please dispose of it properly, and make sure the door is removed so children cannot be trapped inside.)

If you're thinking about purchasing a new refrigerator-freezer or a separate freezer, check the annual energy cost on the Energy Guide label to find the most economical buy.

Side-by-side refrigerators use approximately 7 percent to 13 percent more energy than similar-sized models with the freezer on top.

Chest freezers are typically more efficient than upright freezers, because they're better insulated and cold air doesn't spill out when the door is opened. 

Ceiling Fans Save Many Dollars On Your Energy Bills

Attached are reprints of a couple of articles that describe in general terms how valuable fans, particularly the ceiling variety, can be in lowering your electricity bill in the summer months.  I think you will agree with me that they are worth the investment and can pay themselves off in a few months in in our climate.  Hope these ideas are helpful to you.

Ceiling Fans vs. Air Conditioning

I found several sites that list different amounts but from what I can tell is it is pretty inexpensive to operate ceiling fans.  Lowest cost is 1.25 to 2-3 cents an hour-- About $5.00 a month....worth it to me!

Ceiling fans are extremely efficient and can cost as little as 2 or 3 cents per hour to operate. Compare this to about 50 cents per hour for central air and you can see there is a lot of money to be saved by using ceiling fans. Of course these numbers will vary depending on your location, but it puts the proportional cost of running air conditioning versus ceiling fans into perspective.

Certainly you will save the most money if you do not run your central air at all, and instead run a ceiling fan in the rooms in which you spend your time. However, this is not always a practical solution since ceiling fans do not actually reduce the temperature in your home, they only give you a wind chill effect if you are in their close proximity. So in very warm climates, using just your ceiling fans may not give you the comfort level you are used to with air conditioning. If you don’t have air conditioning, ceiling fans will at least give you a good level of relief…particularly if you open some windows in your house to allow for maximum air circulation.

Circulating Fans to the Summertime Rescue

Circulating fans include ceiling fans, table fans, floor fans and fans mounted to poles or walls.  These devices create a wind chill effect that will make you more comfortable in your home, even if it's cooled by natural ventilation or air conditioning.  Ceiling fans are considered the most effective of these devices.

If you use air conditioning, a ceiling fan will allow you to raise the thermostat setting about 4 degrees F with no reduction in comfort.  During moderately hot weather, ceiling fans will allow you to avoid using your air conditioner altogether.  Install a fan in each room that needs to be cooled during hot weather.

Ceiling fans are only appropriate in rooms with ceilings at least eight feet high.  Fans work best when the blades are seven to nine feet above the floor and 10 to 12 inches below the ceiling.  Fans should be installed so the blades are no closer than eight inches from the ceiling and 18 inches from the walls.

Larger ceiling fans can move more air than smaller ones.  a 36 or 44 inch diameter fan will cool rooms up to 225 square feet, while fans that are 52 inch or more should be used in larger rooms.  Multiple fans work best in rooms longer than 18 feet.  Small and medium sized fans will will provide efficient cooling in a four to six foot diameter area, while larger ones are effective up to 10 feet. . . .  When buying fans, look for the Energy Star label.  Fans that earn the label move air 20 percent more efficiently, on average, than standard models.




 

Change Out Your Home HVAC Filters Routinely

Attached is an article I found recently that describes very well just how important it is to change out your home HVAC air filters on a routine basis. You may not agree with all the points the author proposes but the main take away is just how important these seemingly inexpensive items are to our health and utility costs.

Why you must change your air filters…every month!

by Adrienne Bashista

Mark, our energy auditor, recently did an audit on a fairly new, 3500 square foot house, whose owners reported unusually high energy costs. He did the audit and found that the house was pretty tight – HVAC ducts had fewer leaks than normal, and the attic was tight, as was the rest of the home’s envelope. There was no reason for their bills to be so high…except that they hadn’t changed their air filters since they moved in, a year and a half ago.

Because the air filters were clogged the HVAC system had to work extra hard to get any conditioned air into the home. In fact, the first thing he noticed before he even began testing the home for leaks is that a lot of noise was coming from the air returns. He could literally hear the resistance of the air getting into and out of the home.

Most homes will have energy inefficiencies above and beyond something so simple as dirty air filters, but it’s worth emphasizing that this is an important part of energy efficiency in the home – changing out your air filters is cheap, simple, and can have big impact on energy use and air quality.

There are basically three kinds of air filters available on the market right now: reusable, washable filters; pleated filters that block a lot of air but trap more particles – often advertised as helping people with allergies; and thin, less expensive, fiberglass or polyfil filters.

You would think that since we have a green business we’d tell you to get the reusable filters – but you’d be wrong! Although we are all for reusing, reducing, and recycling, in this case there are a couple of reasons not to use the reusable air filters. First, for them to be effective you need to clean them every single month. For many people this won’t be an issue, but for those who aren’t systematic about things like this the particle build-up on the reusable filters if they’re not cleaned every month can cause your HVAC system to work harder than it should, and it could be a health and safety hazard, depending on how long you let it go on.
Second, when you wash them they need to be 100% dry before you put them back or you could be spreading mold and mildew throughout your home, which is the opposite of what these filters are supposed to do. Washing them also doesn’t get rid of all the contaminants – obviously defeating the purpose of air filters once again.

For most people, too, we don’t advise the pleated filters, largely because most homes’ HVAC duct systems are designed using lots of flex ducts, which forces the HVAC unit to work hard to push air through. Add a pleated filter to this situation and the HVAC unit’s life can be shortened.

If you have a lot of allergies and you want to use the pleated filters, you should talk to an HVAC technician to see if your home’s ductwork will work with these filters. You may have to have your ductwork redesigned so that the filters can be effective.

So what’s left? The cheap fiberglass or polyfil filters (purchased through a HVAC supply company, like C.C. Dixon) are what we recommend. They are inexpensive, provide good filtration, but not too good (thus blocking air flow and causing your HVAC system to work hard), and work with all homes’ HVAC systems.
The downside is, of course, that they’re disposable, not biodegradable, and thus add to our trash problem. As someone who composts and recycles everything she can, I have a problem with basic wastefulness – but at the same time, there’s no really good alternatives on the market right now. It’d be great if someone came up with a biodegradable air filter – we’ll be happy to test this product when it comes on the market – but for now we have to stick with recommending old school air filters…as long as you remember to change them!