Christmas Light Safety Tips

When you put up Christmas lights this season - or holiday lights during any season - be sure to follow these Christmas light safety tips.

·        Choose Christmas lights that have been tested and deemed safe by a reputable testing laboratory, the best are UL or ETL. Christmas lights listed as safe by these laboratories will note that on the packaging.

·         Try to use the cooler-burning "mini" Christmas lights as opposed to the traditional larger bulbs. The older style burns much hotter.

·         Only use Christmas lights that have fuses in the plugs.

·         Inspect each set of Christmas lights - old or new - for damage. Return or throw out any set with cracked or broken sockets, frayed or bare wires, or loose connections.

·         Replace burned out bulbs promptly with bulbs of the same wattage.

·         Never hang Christmas lights on a metal tree. The tree can become charged with electricity and shock someone. The tree can also short out the Christmas lights and cause a fire.

·         Want Christmas lights outdoors? Use outdoor Christmas lights. The packaging will note whether the lights can be used indoors, outdoors, or both.

·         All outdoor electrical decorations should be plugged into a ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI). You can buy portable units for outdoor use, or you can have them permanently installed by an electrician.

·         Use extension cords properly. Outdoor cords can be used inside or outside. Do not overload extension cords - they can get hot enough to burn.

·         Stay away from powerlines or feeder lines (these go from the pole to the house).

·         Secure outside Christmas lights with insulated holders (never use tacks or nails) or run strings of lights through hooks.

·         When you leave or go to bed at night, turn off your Christmas lights.

·         Never pull on a string of Christmas lights, it stresses the cords and can lead to fraying. Store Christmas lights loosely wrapped for the same reason.

Winter Energy Savings

As we move into the winter heating season, energy usage will shift from high electrical to high natural gas consumption for most of us in North Mississippi.  Having an energy efficient home and business is always a prudent thing to do, no matter what the season but the ways of improving consumption can be impacted in different ways depending on the season.  Existing customers of JOC can have their homes or businesses energy audited for free to find out ways to lower their usage.  All of us, however who are on North East Mississippi Electric Power Association and TVA electric power have the ability to to have an In-home Energy Evaluation performed with ways of getting cash incentives for implementing their audit ideas.  I highly recommend consideration of this program as not only can you save money, you can proactively reduce your energy consumption and that is good for everyone.  For more information and details visit Energy Right at www.energyright.com or call 866-441-1430.

Whether you choose Just One Call to assist you or use your local energy provider, energy savings is always the right thing to do.

Fireplace Maintenance and Safety Tips

Attached is an article from "Realty Reality," a web site for people living in the NJ & PA area but has applications here in Mississippi as well. I hope you find the attached of value as we go into the fall and winter season.

With cooler seasons approaching, more of us will want to enjoy our fireplaces. But before you warm to the glow, make sure that you know how to make your fireplace safe. Here are guidelines and resources for fireplace safety, maintance, inspection and cleaning...

Wood Burning Fireplaces
Creosote is a natural by-product of burning wood and sticks to the walls of chimneys/flues. It is tar-like substance made up of almost pure carbon and is combustible, so it is important to not to allow a build-up in your chimney/flue. To inspect and clean it yourself, here are some basic guidelines:
Open the damper of the fireplace and, using a strong spotlight, look up way inside to determine the condition of the interior as well as the level of creosote in the chimney. This is fairly easy if you know what to look for. As far as condition is concerned, look for spaces and cracks in the surface. For creosote, look for a grayish/black buildup. If this is grayer in color and not shiny, it can be easily removed with the proper sized chimney brush. On the other hand, if it is black and shiny, it will be more difficult to remove and may require a special spray-on powder that helps turn the tough black glaze to a more brittle state. It can then be removed with a chimney brush.

Use a toothbrush and Worcestershire sauce to keep brass shiny. You can scrub the brass knobs, or even the door or metal areas around the fireplace.

The flue/chimney should be cleaned with either a metal or plastic brush. Orange clay flue tiles need to be cleaned with a wire brush, while round metal flues should be cleaned with a plastic brush to avoid scraping the metal surface. Before cleaning any chimney, make sure the opening into the house is sealed up to avoid expelling dust, ash, and soot into the living area. If you use a vacuum to suck up the soot, make sure it comes equipped with a HEPA filter to trap the dust. Please test how this works with a small amount before completing the job.(Source: Fireplace Essentials)Gas Fireplace Inspection Check Points:- safety test for carbon monoxide (CO)
- check for leaks in the log set and burner pan
- check gas line pressure
- clean burners and controls
- clean and adjust pilot assembly/spark ignition
- check vent and diverter
- check power vent and fan kit if applicable
- clean glass window with approved cleaner
- clean-up/vacuum around base of unit

Basic Periodic Maintenance for Fireplaces
Annually: Have your wood-burning fireplace chimney inspected and cleaned by a professional to ensure that it’s obstruction free and clear of creosote, (Have your gas fireplace inspected by a trained professional. Be sure the fan, pilots, and burners are checked, and that the ignition and combustion are working properly.)
Monthly: Clean gas logs with a soft-bristle brush. Make sure the logs are cool before you start.
Weekly: During heavy periods of use, clean the wood-burning firebox. Never empty the box completely if you plan to use it again in a few days (an inch of ash in the bottom works as an insulator, helping wood heat faster and retain heat longer). Note: Before removing the ash from the firebox, open the damper, which will draw any flying ash up and not out into the room.
Other: Cap the chimney to deter animals from entering, keep away debris from blocking opening, help prevent water damage and prevent large burning embers from escaping and stating fires in surrounding area. (Source: HomeMag)

Usage Tips:
- Avoid burning a fire longer than five hours and be sure the door is open for proper venting.
- Always keey the screen closed to keep hot embers from jumping onto the carpet.
- Consider placing a non-flammable rug directly in front of the fireplace just in case any sparks do escape. (The rug will prevent sparks from igniting a carpet or wooden floor in case some of these sparks escape from the fire. Also make sure that the rug is kept clear of flamable items.)
- Never leave your fire unattended, especially when small children are present.(Source: FirePlaces)

Additional Online Resources:

The Hearth, Patio and Barbecue Association (HPBA) has tips on fireplace safety. Click here to view their Fireplace Safety Tips. Fact Sheet on Fireplace Safety (PDF)HGTV - Fireplace Maintenance - chimneysweep explains ways to care for and maintain a fireplace.About.com - Woodburning Fireplace Maintenance
About.com - Gas Burning Fireplaces / Before You Buy A Gas-Log Fireplace (What You Should Know)


Chimney Safety Institute of America (CSIA) has safety and maintenance tips as well as directory of chimney sweeps. Here is an example tip:
Ever wonder what wood is the best to burn as firewood? Oak is an American favorite, as well as other hard-woods. You can burn other softer wood also, as long as it is split and dried long enough. It's much more important to burn dry wood than to worry about what kind of wood it is.

Video: Fireplace Maintenance - episode segment from Michael Holigan's "Your New House" TV show, also transcript and additional online information.

Gas Log Maintenance, Service & Repair FAQ

Gas log maintenance is relatively simple, which is one of the best things about owning a set. There's none of the hauling and sweeping associated with real wood, and no sparks to worry about. Here are a few rules of thumb for keeping your gas log set well-maintained:

Have a Professional Inspect Your Gas Logs Once a Year

A certified professional installer should come out once a year to check your gas lines, valves, connections, and safety pilot assembly, especially if you use your gas logs often. The Hearth, Patio, and Barbecue Association (HPBA) also recommends that you have your chimney inspected and cleaned once a year to make sure that soot buildup is not preventing your gas log set from being properly vented.

Cleaning Your Gas Logs

Gas logs don't need much cleaning, but if you want to make them look like new, first make sure they are turned off and are not hot to the touch. Then brush your gas logs with a soft-bristled brush or a duster to remove any dust or dirt. Do not remove your gas logs from the fireplace to clean them - leave them in their installed position. Never use water or any other solvents to clean gas logs.

Gas Log Service & Repair

Most service and repairs, such as to a broken valve, leaky gas line, or a burner that is producing soot or carbon monoxide should be done by a certified professional. However, if you simply need new embers or other decorative elements, those you can order and place yourself.

Easy Solutions for Saving Energy and Money This Fall

The attached comments are reprints from Center Point Energy's monthly newsletter that is well worth repeating.  Though not new ideas, they are tried and proven ways of saving money during the heating season.

• Lower thermostat setting.  Lower the thermostat setting to 68 degrees during the day, and to 58 degrees at night or when away.  For every one degree reduction in the thermostat setting, one can save 3-5 percent on heating bills.
• Install a programmable thermostat.  A programmable thermostat can automatically lower the heating temperature at night or while one is away from home.
• Seal leaks and windows.  Seal leaks around doors and windows with weatherstripping or caulk.  stretch plastic tightly over inside or outside of windows to reduce cold air infiltration.
• Heating system tune-up.  Furnaces should be checked annually by a qualified technician to ensure safe and efficient operation.  
• Change furnace filter.  Change furnace filter according to manufacturer specifications.
• Lower water heater temperature.  Reduce water heating costs by simply lowering the thermostat setting on the water heater.  Turn the water heater temperature to the lowest setting comfortable.  for most people, 120 degrees Fahrenheit is sufficient and safe.

Home Electrical Generators

If you live in or near Oxford, MS or for that matter, anywhere in the US these days, you probably have experienced power outages due to many factors.  Inclement weather, earth quakes, extremely hot summer temperatures, electrical grid failures, generation outages and transformer failures are just a few items that can cause you to loose power for extended periods of time.  It seems like this year for all of us, these events have occurred all too often and left many of us in the dark.  It is even worse if you are away from home and your home, including your refrigerator/freezer leave you with spoiled food, extremely high temperatures and in some cases, major humidity issues that you only find when you return home.  What a vacation?????


Thank goodness there are some solutions for these problems today that are not as costly as they once were.  I am specifically talking about a partial or whole house permanently installed generator powered by natural gas.  What they do is sit outside your home, very much in size like that of a central air conditioning condenser unit that only come on following a greater than 2 minute power outage.  They are very easy to maintain, require a automatic weekly 12 minute operation to maintain the battery charge and can provide partial or full house generating capacity, in all or only partial areas of electrical need.

I installed a partial home generator in my home three years ago when I built it and have been very pleased with the results.  While I have had it come on automatically on multiple occasions, its greatest use was this summer when a tornado hit our neighborhood and did much damage leaving the power out for an extended period of time.  The unit came on and provided power for us to follow the weather via TV and keep up with what was happening in the area for the next 24 hours before power was restored.  During this time, two additional tornadoes occurred, one of which devastated many homes in an area near ours.

It is not very difficult for an electrician to install one of these as depicted below and if you specify natural gas or propane as the fuel of choice, the run time is essentially unlimited.  I highly recommend consideration of a whole or partial home generator, based on my experience, even if you only have to use it once a year.  You will be amazed at the Peace of Mind it brings to you as a home owner.  If you are interested and want to get a view of how some raters pick units, take a look at this URL (http://www.generators.smps.us/ratings.html) on the internet.

Don't Forget Refrigerators and Freezers in Your Energy Savings Plans

Attached is a reprint from the California Energy Commission's Consumer Energy Center which I found of significant interest as I have begun to see my energy bills rise this summer.  I hope you find it beneficial.  Even though we are in northern Mississippi, our heat loads and subsequent costs have risen here this summer and the ideas mentioned here are worth your consideration.

REFRIGERATORS AND FREEZERS

Refrigerators and freezers consume about a sixth of all electricity in a typical American home - using more electricity than any other single household appliance.

Fortunately, refrigerators have gotten much more efficient over the past 20 years. While there still is room for improvement, today's refrigerators use 60 percent less electricity on average than 20-year-old models.

If you have an old style, inefficient refrigerator, it may be costing you as much as $280 a year in electricity in areas with high electrical rates. That means that a new, more efficient model will pay for itself just from the energy savings alone.

Always keep in mind that appliances have two price tags. One tag is the purchase price on the equipment when you pick it out at the store. The other price is the operating cost paid out month after month, year after year, in the form of your electricity bill.

Take a look at the new refrigerator you're thinking about buying. Consider how much it will cost each month to run it. Twenty years from now it should still be keeping food cold. But at the end of those 20 years, you may find that you spent much more money operating the refrigerator than you did buying it in the first place!

That's why it's important to consider the operating costs as well as the purchase price when you make your buying decisions. And remember that purchasing an energy efficient unit really pays off in your utility bills.

Today's Standards - Refrigerator and Freezer Efficiency

Refrigerators have to meet federal or California standards for minimum operating efficiency. It's possible, however, to purchase a refrigerator that is better than the minimum. Refrigerators that exceed minimum standards will run more efficiently and provide you with long-term savings on your monthly utility bill. In fact, the additional cost you may pay for an energy efficient one is often paid off many times over by the energy savings.

Before you go shopping, explore the ENERGY STAR® product database. It lists high efficiency refrigerators, refrigerator-freezers, and freezers that exceed appliance efficiency standards - making it easier for you to decide which models to look for when you go shopping.

For even more efficiency information, check out the EnergyGuide label that appears on the outside of refrigerators and many other appliances.

Refrigerators 

Buying Smart

Refrigerators come with an EnergyGuide label that tells you in kilowatt-hours (kWh) how much electricity a particular model uses in a year. The smaller the number, the less energy the refrigerator uses and the less it will cost you to operate.

Before you go shopping, explore the Energy Star� product database. It lists high efficiency refrigerators, refrigerator-freezers, and freezers that exceed appliance efficiency standards - making it easier for you to decide which models to look for when you go shopping.

Also check with your local utility company to see if they are offering rebates on energy efficient models.

• Refrigerators with the freezer on either the bottom or top are the most efficient. Bottom freezer models use approximately 16 percent less energy than side-by-side models and top freezer models use about 13 percent less than side-by-side.
  
• Through-the-door icemakers and water dispensers are convenient and reduce the need to open the door, which helps maintain a more constant temperature; however, these convenient items will increase your refrigerator's energy use by 14 to 20 percent.
  
• Mini-doors give you easy access to items most often used. The main door is opened less often, which saves energy.
  
• Too large a refrigerator may waste space and energy. One that's too small can mean extra trips to the grocery store. Your best bet is to decide which size fits your needs, then compare the EnergyGuide label on each so you can purchase the most energy efficient make and model.
  
• A manual defrost refrigerator uses half the energy of an automatic defrost model but must be defrosted regularly to stay energy efficient.
  
• Refrigerators with anti-sweat heaters consume five percent to 10 percent more energy. Look for models with an "energy saver" switch that lets you turn down - or off - the heating coils (which prevent condensation).

Freezers

• Chest freezers are usually more efficient than upright freezers. Chest freezers are better insulated and cold air doesn't spill out when the door is opened.
  
• Automatic defrost freezers can consume 40 percent more electricity than similar manual defrost models.

It's Your Money

Don't put the refrigerator near a heat source - an oven, the dishwasher or direct sunlight from a window.

• Make sure air can circulate around the condenser coils. Leave a space between the wall or cabinets.
  
• Keep your refrigerator's coils clean. Brushing or vacuuming the coils can improve efficiency by as much as 30 percent.
  
• Check door seals to make sure they are airtight. To test them, close the door on a dollar bill and try to pull it out. If the dollar slides out easily, kiss that dollar away because you're wasting energy and money by letting cold air leak out!
  
• Check the temperature - a fridge that is 10 degrees colder than necessary can use 25 percent more energy. Refrigerators should be kept between 35 and 38 degrees - freezers at 0 degrees Fahrenheit.
  
• A full refrigerator retains cold better than an empty one. If your refrigerator is nearly empty, store water-filled containers inside. The mass of cold items will enable the refrigerator to recover more quickly after the door has been opened. On the other hand, don't overfill it, since that will interfere with the circulation of cold air inside. The simplest solution is to buy the right size for your family in the first place.
  
• Open the door as little as possible. Get in and out quickly. Label leftovers so you can quickly see what they are.
  
• Regularly defrost manual-defrost models. Frost buildup increases the amount of energy needed to keep the motor running.
  
• Allow hot foods to cool before refrigerating or freezing.
  
• Get rid of that older, energy-hogging second refrigerator in your garage! One large refrigerator is cheaper to run than two smaller ones.

If you do get rid of your older refrigerator or freezer, please dispose of it properly. Make sure the door is removed so children cannot be trapped inside older models that have locking doors. Also, make sure that the refrigerant, such as chlorofluorocarbons or CFCs, is properly recycled. CFCs are suspected of depleting the Earth's protective ozone layer when released into the atmosphere.

Refrigerators and Freezers Tips

Leave enough space between your refrigerator and the walls or cabinets so air can circulate around the condenser coils. Trapped heat increases energy consumption.

For food safety keep your refrigerator between 36� and 40� F and your freezer between 0° and 5° Fahrenheit. A refrigerator that is colder than safety dictates uses up to 25 percent more energy, and will freeze your milk and lettuce.

As your food budget permits, keep your freezer and refrigerator full-but not so full that air can't circulate. The mass of cold items inside will help your refrigerator recover each time the door is opened. Here's a hint: If your refrigerator is nearly empty, store water-filled containers inside.

Check door seals regularly to make sure they're airtight. To test them, close the door on a dollar bill and try to pull it out. (Larger bills are harder to come by, but work just as well!) If the dollar slides out easily, you're wasting energy and money.

Unless it has untold sentimental value, get rid of that older, energy-hogging second refrigerator in your garage! It's costing you about $120 a year to operate. One large refrigerator is cheaper to run than two smaller ones. (Warning: If you get rid of an older refrigerator or freezer, please dispose of it properly, and make sure the door is removed so children cannot be trapped inside.)

If you're thinking about purchasing a new refrigerator-freezer or a separate freezer, check the annual energy cost on the Energy Guide label to find the most economical buy.

Side-by-side refrigerators use approximately 7 percent to 13 percent more energy than similar-sized models with the freezer on top.

Chest freezers are typically more efficient than upright freezers, because they're better insulated and cold air doesn't spill out when the door is opened. 

Ceiling Fans Save Many Dollars On Your Energy Bills

Attached are reprints of a couple of articles that describe in general terms how valuable fans, particularly the ceiling variety, can be in lowering your electricity bill in the summer months.  I think you will agree with me that they are worth the investment and can pay themselves off in a few months in in our climate.  Hope these ideas are helpful to you.

Ceiling Fans vs. Air Conditioning

I found several sites that list different amounts but from what I can tell is it is pretty inexpensive to operate ceiling fans.  Lowest cost is 1.25 to 2-3 cents an hour-- About $5.00 a month....worth it to me!

Ceiling fans are extremely efficient and can cost as little as 2 or 3 cents per hour to operate. Compare this to about 50 cents per hour for central air and you can see there is a lot of money to be saved by using ceiling fans. Of course these numbers will vary depending on your location, but it puts the proportional cost of running air conditioning versus ceiling fans into perspective.

Certainly you will save the most money if you do not run your central air at all, and instead run a ceiling fan in the rooms in which you spend your time. However, this is not always a practical solution since ceiling fans do not actually reduce the temperature in your home, they only give you a wind chill effect if you are in their close proximity. So in very warm climates, using just your ceiling fans may not give you the comfort level you are used to with air conditioning. If you don’t have air conditioning, ceiling fans will at least give you a good level of relief…particularly if you open some windows in your house to allow for maximum air circulation.

Circulating Fans to the Summertime Rescue

Circulating fans include ceiling fans, table fans, floor fans and fans mounted to poles or walls.  These devices create a wind chill effect that will make you more comfortable in your home, even if it's cooled by natural ventilation or air conditioning.  Ceiling fans are considered the most effective of these devices.

If you use air conditioning, a ceiling fan will allow you to raise the thermostat setting about 4 degrees F with no reduction in comfort.  During moderately hot weather, ceiling fans will allow you to avoid using your air conditioner altogether.  Install a fan in each room that needs to be cooled during hot weather.

Ceiling fans are only appropriate in rooms with ceilings at least eight feet high.  Fans work best when the blades are seven to nine feet above the floor and 10 to 12 inches below the ceiling.  Fans should be installed so the blades are no closer than eight inches from the ceiling and 18 inches from the walls.

Larger ceiling fans can move more air than smaller ones.  a 36 or 44 inch diameter fan will cool rooms up to 225 square feet, while fans that are 52 inch or more should be used in larger rooms.  Multiple fans work best in rooms longer than 18 feet.  Small and medium sized fans will will provide efficient cooling in a four to six foot diameter area, while larger ones are effective up to 10 feet. . . .  When buying fans, look for the Energy Star label.  Fans that earn the label move air 20 percent more efficiently, on average, than standard models.




 

Change Out Your Home HVAC Filters Routinely

Attached is an article I found recently that describes very well just how important it is to change out your home HVAC air filters on a routine basis. You may not agree with all the points the author proposes but the main take away is just how important these seemingly inexpensive items are to our health and utility costs.

Why you must change your air filters…every month!

by Adrienne Bashista

Mark, our energy auditor, recently did an audit on a fairly new, 3500 square foot house, whose owners reported unusually high energy costs. He did the audit and found that the house was pretty tight – HVAC ducts had fewer leaks than normal, and the attic was tight, as was the rest of the home’s envelope. There was no reason for their bills to be so high…except that they hadn’t changed their air filters since they moved in, a year and a half ago.

Because the air filters were clogged the HVAC system had to work extra hard to get any conditioned air into the home. In fact, the first thing he noticed before he even began testing the home for leaks is that a lot of noise was coming from the air returns. He could literally hear the resistance of the air getting into and out of the home.

Most homes will have energy inefficiencies above and beyond something so simple as dirty air filters, but it’s worth emphasizing that this is an important part of energy efficiency in the home – changing out your air filters is cheap, simple, and can have big impact on energy use and air quality.

There are basically three kinds of air filters available on the market right now: reusable, washable filters; pleated filters that block a lot of air but trap more particles – often advertised as helping people with allergies; and thin, less expensive, fiberglass or polyfil filters.

You would think that since we have a green business we’d tell you to get the reusable filters – but you’d be wrong! Although we are all for reusing, reducing, and recycling, in this case there are a couple of reasons not to use the reusable air filters. First, for them to be effective you need to clean them every single month. For many people this won’t be an issue, but for those who aren’t systematic about things like this the particle build-up on the reusable filters if they’re not cleaned every month can cause your HVAC system to work harder than it should, and it could be a health and safety hazard, depending on how long you let it go on.
Second, when you wash them they need to be 100% dry before you put them back or you could be spreading mold and mildew throughout your home, which is the opposite of what these filters are supposed to do. Washing them also doesn’t get rid of all the contaminants – obviously defeating the purpose of air filters once again.

For most people, too, we don’t advise the pleated filters, largely because most homes’ HVAC duct systems are designed using lots of flex ducts, which forces the HVAC unit to work hard to push air through. Add a pleated filter to this situation and the HVAC unit’s life can be shortened.

If you have a lot of allergies and you want to use the pleated filters, you should talk to an HVAC technician to see if your home’s ductwork will work with these filters. You may have to have your ductwork redesigned so that the filters can be effective.

So what’s left? The cheap fiberglass or polyfil filters (purchased through a HVAC supply company, like C.C. Dixon) are what we recommend. They are inexpensive, provide good filtration, but not too good (thus blocking air flow and causing your HVAC system to work hard), and work with all homes’ HVAC systems.
The downside is, of course, that they’re disposable, not biodegradable, and thus add to our trash problem. As someone who composts and recycles everything she can, I have a problem with basic wastefulness – but at the same time, there’s no really good alternatives on the market right now. It’d be great if someone came up with a biodegradable air filter – we’ll be happy to test this product when it comes on the market – but for now we have to stick with recommending old school air filters…as long as you remember to change them!

My Favorite Tools To Use Around The House

Most of us find after a period of time that there are favorite tools that we use around the house that make our life so much easier.  That applies to handy men as well as weekend warriors.  I have my list and I am sure you have yours.  Attached are pictures of mine and how useful I have found them to be in the past and currently.


This is a five-in-one hand tool that I recently purchased from a home supply store which has proven to the perfect adaptation of a putty knife, pry blade, scraper blade, paint scraper, grout remover, wall paper utility knife and carpet tucker.  If you don't have one, get it.



This is a Yankee screwdriver which is really a push drill which I have had for over 35 years.  It allows you to install almost any size small bit and position small holes in sheet rock, wood, plaster or wall board.  I usually use it when a battery powered drill I have is too large, heavy or just won't fit in an area where I need a pilot hole or other small penetration.

 
A ratchet screw driver is another tool I have owned for many years.  It fits my arthritic hands perfectly and allows me to get much more leverage on screws of almost any size than any other hand tool,  It accepts heads hex end heads that will fit any screw design.

This is a kit of multiple driver heads for almost all sizes and shapes of screw heads which can be used in the ratchet screw driver above or you personal drill.  It also has drill bits for drilling many size holes up to 3/8" and spade bits up to 3/4".  It is one of the best collections of bits I have ever seen and use them often.

This handy jig is what I now use to hang mirrors, pictures and about any wall hanging.  It is sturdy enough to hold with one hand, support up to about 40 pounds to allow you to mark perfectly holes for mounting your pictures and mirrors.  It was a gift and I didn't use it for quite a while but when I did, it was great.  I now use it for almost all my hanging needs.  As an engineer, I am precise with measurements and have found this tool to make that much easier for me.


I hope this definition of my treasured hand tools is helpful and that you will find them of value in helping make your weekend projects go quicker and with greater ease.

Spring Cleaning Easy Tips

Are you getting excited about spring?  You, me and probably 200 million of our countrymen most likely are.  There is something about the new growth in spring that brings out this type reaction in most of us.  These comments are provided to show you how easy the freshening up of your home can be if you want to do it yourself.  Many are items you already know but if you are like me, we tend to forget during the cold and dreariness of fall and winter.  Try them and see what you think.

Windows are always a challenge but can be tamed with some old tried and proven techniques.  Streak-free windows can be achieved by using crumpled old newspaper with a vinegar and water solution for cleaning and/or squeegees to remove streaks.  You can also buy a combination cleaning sponge tool like the one I use with a squeegee on the back side that allows you to have all your tools in one hand.

Hard surfaces in your home can be attacked with many of the old as well as new cleaners on the market.  They can be applied and removed with paper towels, sometimes applied directly to the towel to use less and save dollars in the process.  There are also special micro-fiber cloths and mitts that are good alternatives and can be washed when you are finished and reused.

Carpet cleaning can be a challenge but in recent years, several new products have come to market that do an excellent job.  The key is and has always been to try to blot stains (never rub) as soon as they occur but sometimes that is not possible.  Some of the newer products will remove old stains if you follow instructions very closely (blot and do not brush or rub).

For your bath tub, keeping that ring from forming may not be as difficult as one might think.  A tip recently shared is to add a little degreasing dish soap to the bath water once you finish the bath.  Agitate the water a bit as it begins to drain and the ring will come off.  If you have a whirlpool tub, all the better, just leave the pump on as the tub starts to drain but shut it off before you get below the highest water jet as it will make large splashes on you, the floor and potentially the walls.

Ovens are also an area where issues can quickly occur.  An old tried and proven trick, even with electric self cleaning ovens is to sprinkle a generous amount of salt on overspills, even as food is cooking.  It can then easily be wiped up with an oven mitt and wet rags as soon as you remove your food.  You just need to be careful with the mitt not to burn yourself on the hot racks and oven walls.

While there is no panacea for cleaning, I hope these ideas are helpful and remind you of some of the old techniques that really work.

Home Maintenance - Why Do It

All home owners wonder from time to time why they ever bought a home, particularly when it comes time to perform some maintenance on it.  Like you, I have asked that question many times but given the choice of having a landlord and renting or owning my own home, I prefer owning.  Given that choice, which some may disagree with in today’s market, it means I must maintain it or have the work performed by others.

 

Why should I maintain it in the first place?  Since many pundits say that we should only maintain when something is broken (i.e. if it isn’t broken, don’t fix it), why not wait and save money?  That is of course the $64,000 question.  For a start, our home is generally our largest single investment.  As such, we must protect that investment so that it has the potential to at least maintain its value or maybe even increase in good times.  In today’s market, there is no guarantee of increases in home value but you can bet that if a home is poorly maintained, its value will most likely decrease, even in good times.

What is the break-even point for preventative maintenance vs. breakdown maintenance?  There are of course many ways to respond to this question.  One is to say that breakdowns always seem to come at the worst possible time and lead to the highest cost and discomfort to perform.  My experience is that breakdowns are like this and are a perfect example of Murphy’s Law (i.e. if something bad can happen, it will always come at the worst time and with the worst consequences).    An example of this is when our central air conditioning unit fails during the heat of the summer.  This is usually a time when a repair man is at his highest utilization, highest cost and availability is limited.  As a result, we become very uncomfortable for a longer period of time and end up paying more for the repair because parts are probably equally longer for delivery when something major happens.  An example of preventive maintenance in this case is when we service this equipment before every season to increase the odds that no issues will come up in the winter and summer.  By preventing major issues, we get three major results:  1) equipment will last longer improving the amortization of the original cost, 2) we will not be out the major cost of breakdown repairs and 3) we will not be inconvenienced with failed equipment.

Should we perform the maintenance ourselves or have others do it for us?  This question also has multiple answers.  Do you enjoy doing repairs around the house?  Do you have the knowledge and time to perform maintenance on your property?  If the answer is yes to both, then by all means you should do it on your own.  Enjoying the performance of work is always best when you can do it for yourself and your family.   Do you not have the time or inclination to self perform home maintenance?  If you answer yes, then you need to hire a professional to do it for you.

Whatever your choice, maintenance is critical for your home as it helps maintain your home’s value and your potential return on your investment.  In addition, you will likely find that you enjoy your home much more as a result of the process.  Now go have fun!

Tips for Spring Gardening

Spring Gardening Tips

Follow the 10 tips outlined below for a welcoming garden that's filled with color and fragrance -- and song.

Survey the Yard

Make note of tree limbs that should be removed or cabled, especially those that overhang structures. Hire an arborist to maintain large trees.Cut down last year's perennial foliage, and toss it into the compost pile. Rake mulch from beds planted with bulbs before foliage appears, and refresh mulch in other planting areas after soil warms. Check fences, steps, and pathways for disrepair caused by freezing and thawing.

Order Tools and Plants

Tune up tools so everything is ready when things start growing. Make note of what is missing, and order tools for the new growing season. Choose new plants for the garden. Order perennials, trees, and shrubs for spring planting.

Get Ready to Mow

 Send the mower and leaf blower for servicing, or if you have the right tools, sharpen the mower blades yourself. Refill your mower with oil, install fresh spark plugs, and lubricate moving parts if necessary. Clear the lawn of winter debris, and look for areas that need reseeding before mowing.

Prune Trees and Shrubs

Remove dead, damaged, and diseased branches from woody plants. Thin and trim summer-blooming shrubs such as butterfly bush, hydrangea, and most roses, except for old-fashioned once bloomers. Prune cold-damaged wood after plants resume spring growth. Prune spring-blooming shrubs and trees after flowering.

Take a Soil Test

Check soil pH with a home soil- test kit, taking several samples from different planting areas for an accurate reading. Enrich soil as necessary: Add dolomitic lime to raise the pH or elemental sulfur to lower the pH.
Prepare New BedsClear the planting area as soon as soil can be worked, removing sod or weeds and debris. Spread a 4-inch layer of compost or well-rotted manure and any amendments over soil, and cultivate it to a depth of 10 to 12 inches with a spading fork.

Plant

Plant bare-root trees, shrubs, and perennials such as hostas and daylilies by early spring. Choose a cool, cloudy day if possible. Transplant container-grown plants anytime during the growing season except midsummer; be sure to water them thoroughly. Sow seeds of cool-season flowers like sweet peas, poppies, and calendula, and vegetables such as lettuce, parsley, and spinach.

Fertilize

Apply balanced fertilizer (6-6-6 or 8-8-8), fish emulsion, or other soil amendments recommended by soil-test results around trees and shrubs when new growth appears. Spread high-acid fertilizer and pine-needle mulch around acid-loving shrubs like azaleas and camellias. Begin fertilizing perennials when active growth resumes.

Start a Compost Pile

Start a compost pile, or use a compost bin, if you don't have one already. Begin by collecting plant debris and leaves raked up from the garden. Chop these up first to speed decomposition. Add equal amounts "brown" (carbon-rich) materials like dried leaves and straw and "green" (nitrogen-rich) materials like grass clippings and weeds in even layers with water and a compost bioactivator. Turn regularly. Continue adding to the pile throughout the season for rich, homemade compost next spring.

Clean Bird Feeders and Baths

Disinfect the feeders by scrubbing with weak bleach solution (1/4 cup bleach: 2 gallons warm water). Rinse and dry the feeders thoroughly before refilling them.Scrub birdbaths with bleach solution, then rinse them thoroughly and refill, changing water weekly. Clean birdbaths and feeders regularly throughout the season.

Guide to Spring Home Maintenance

The Slackers' Guide to Spring Home Maintenance

Preventive maintenance is crucial to the value of your home. Keep your place in tip-top shape with regular check-ups to save you the headache and cost of emergency repairs.

• Reprinted from HGTV 

OUTDOOR MAINTENANCE

Divert Water

Gutters do their job best when clean. Check yours for foliage build-up, particularly if trees hover over the roof. The rainy season is a prime time to ensure all drainage areas remain unblocked by leaves and/or debris. Trapped moisture can leave a house susceptible to moss and mildew and cause major damage to your roof and walls. While you’re at it, make sure the downspout is clean and pointing 2-2-1/2 feet away from foundation walls.

Retain the Roof

It’s easy to take for granted the one thing that shields you from the elements. But doing so could cost you unnecessary repair costs. Be diligent about roof maintenance. After the next rainy day, inspect your ceiling for wet spots. Ask a licensed professional to inspect your roof for wear and tear. "If the shingles are curling, buckling or crackling, it’s time to replace the roof," according to Dan Cornwell, president of CC&L Roofing in Portland, Ore.

Check Your Paint Job
 

Look for chipped, cracked paint along the exterior of your home. "The worse thing you can do is leave wood exposed, because that’s when it will begin to rot," says Brian Gummel, president of The Painting Company in Edgewater, Md. Scrape off any failing paint. Sand it down so there are no rough edges, prime the bare wood surface and paint it with a high quality paint product. Don’t wait until siding accumulates too much dirt. Brighten up the house with a good power washing.

Cut Shrubs and Trees
 

Trim overgrown trees and hedges away from your home to discourage the growth of mildew and moisture. Branches should be at least 7 feet away from the exterior of your house to prolong the life of your siding and roof. Get rid of out-of-control vines, as they can help crack siding and allow moisture and pests entry into your home.

Love Your Lawn
 

Rake up the excess leaves you didn’t get around to last fall. Too many can suffocate your grass and stop it from growing. "Pull up weeds, and remove foilage from the lawn, shrubs and any plants," says Neal Julien, landscaping expert with Neal Works Landscaping in Capitol Heights, Md. Pull up dead flowers and replace them with a low-maintenance variety such as pansies, begonias or mums.

INDOOR MAINTENANCE

Keep the Air Fresh

With warm, sticky days ahead, do yourself a favor and give your air conditioning unit a little TLC. Not only does it cool you down, but an efficient air conditioner removes moisture and humidity from your home, which in excess, can damage its foundation. So if you aren’t changing air filters monthly, start now. A unit free of dust and dirt runs more efficiently, saving you money on your energy bill. While you’re there, check hose connections for leaks. Make sure the drain pans are draining freely. If you suspect a problem, contact a certified technician.

Watch Windows and Doors
 

Investigate all doors and windows for leaks and drafts, particularly near the corners. Look for peeling and chipping paint, which can signal water intrusion. Seal any open areas between the frame and the wall to keep out water, which can deteriorate building materials. Neglecting these tasks can open up potential for environmental hazards like mold growth, experts say.

Control Pests
 

Keep garbage and debris under control around the exterior of your home. "Do what you would do inside, and get rid of junk," says Genma Holmes, owner of Holmes Pest Control in Hermitage, Tenn. Inside, check the house for entrances and gaps where mice and insects may be tempted to come through. Seal up cracks, even if you just did so in the winter. Mulching the yard this spring? Use a liner underneath. "It’s good to keep a barrier between your mulch and your home," she says.

Take a Peek at the Plumbing
 

Except for a coffee maker, anything dripping in your house is a bad sign. Check for leaking faucets or sweating pipes, clogged drains and faulty water drainage systems. On laundry day, look at the washing machine hoses for bulges, cracks or dampness. Check under the kitchen sink for leaks, and make note of wetness around the dishwasher. Inspect your water heater for leaks and corrosion.

Tackle the Tiles

While you’re in spring-cleaning mode, pay attention to worn grout between floor tiles in the bathroom or kitchen. A small crack in the grout or caulk can lead to an expensive repair later. If necessary, re-seal as soon as possible. For the bath, get into the habit of wiping down shower walls and tub after each use to eliminate soap and scum build-up.